S.A Day Twenty

Well its time for me to head home, as I take one last look at the mighty Zambezi river from my lodge. Ahead of me is a flight from Livingston to Jo Burgh then a five hour wait followed by a ten hour flight from Jo Burgh to Heathrow, something I am not looking forward to.

I have seen so much in the short time I have been in Africa and yet there remains so much more that I want to see and do whilst im here.

I have also meet some terrific people whilst on my Holiday which I have to mention once more those being Charnel, Deon, Sarah and Clive, who all made my trip something special especially during my stay in Cape Town.

I also need to say a special thanks to the staff at management at Phinda Mountain Lodge who made my welcome to S.A so special, even though we didn't get to see that elusive Leopard, and to the staff and management at St James of Knysna who run the most spectacular Hotel and are amongst the most helpful and kindest people you could wish to stay with on any holiday. It is these two in particular places, I will remember and recommend to anybody that wants to visit S.A I will definitely be staying at both places again sometime in the future.

S A Day Ninteen

Got up early and went for breakfast, the monkeys were still up to there tricks stealing peoples cerial whilst they went to get a juice from the buffet, The waiters were having a hell of a job trying to scare them away.

Decided to get a transfer to the sister hotel where you can get on the trail to walk to Victori Falls, Unfortunatley because of the dry weather the Falls were not in complete flow but it was still a spectacular sight the sheer vastness and size of the drop the water has to make by all acounts in the rainy season the spray from the falls can be seen 14 km away. There were lots of warning signes up saying about not walking along the tracks on your own so I taged on to the back of a group of German tourists and just followed them taking a break when they did and turned around to come back at the same time. I was starting to run a bit late as the sunset boat trip started at three pm so i just had enough time to grab a quick sandwich and a coke before going back to my room and getting changed into shirt and trousers for the evening trip.

When we got to the boat The African Princess which is the sister ship to the African Queen I headed straight to the Bar and found myself a nice seat with views all round and the bar in front of me. (Free Drinks) We set sail after abiut fifteen minutes waiting for everybody to board and started the cruise up the Zambezi. The hippos were wallowing in the water and there was plenty of wildlfe on the riverbanks to. I must say it wasn't like the last boat I went on in Cape Town, where we were all hanging on, this was much more of a civalised cruise with hardly any movement at all, apart from the feeling you get after having a few beers and then start drinking very large gin and tonics. Hic.....

The sunset was magical across the Zambezi after which it was time to head back to the hotel for something to eat.
What an end to a fabulous holiday Tomorrow I have to spend all day flying as its time to go home

S.A Day Eighteen

Early start this morning to catch the flight from Cape Town to Jo Burgh then change terminals to get the onward flight to Livingston. Had a real comedian of a flight attendant on the first flight who made the whole plane laugh with her commentary unfortunately she accidentally nocked my drink over during the flight but when we landed she presented me with a bottle of wine by way of an apology which I thought was very kind of her.

I didn't have long to wait for my connecting flights so grabbed a beer and a quick look round international departure lounge then on to my next flight that was packed. When we got to Livingston the company that was supposed to pick me up didn't have the correct details, by all accounts I was supposed to have a private car collect me from the airport instead they had thought I was being picked up in the minibus. I just wanted to get to the hotel and wasn't that fused how I got there nut they insisted and in the end moved two people out of this one minibus and squashed them in with everybody else and let me have the minibus to myself with a driver and a guide who gave me a running commentary all the way to the hotel.




The Royal Livingston is a lovely hotel and the staff were all very friendly I was given an ice tea upon arrival and shown around then hopped on to a golf cart to be driven to my apartment. I was warned to keep the doors and windows shut at all times even if I was sitting out on the patio area as the moneys will try to get into your room and they have even been known to dress up in peoples clothes then go running out the door whilst they are wearing them and you never get to see them again.

After sitting down on planes all day I decided to go for a walk around the grounds, you have to stick to the pathways as there are wild animals around, I managed to see a couple of giraffes, four zebras, along with loads of monkeys all playing by the waters edge, one of them was wearing a hat that he had obviously stolen. I then went into main reception and booked a sunset cruise for the next day along the mighty Zambezi River.

Following all this hectic activity and the heat I decided the time had come to visit the sundowners bar which is on a jetty that sticks out into the Zambezi and from which you can sit and have a G & T whilst watching the spray from Victoria Falls and the hippos playing in the river. And also get to see the sun setting across livingston Island and Victoria Falls.

Its a hard life but somebody has to do it.

S.A Day Seventeen

Shit time is going by so quickly I don't know where to start, Yesterday was a real experience and if I haven't said it yet a big thank you to Charnel, but I did wake up with a bit of a hangover today. Hope your drive to PE went ok without to much rain lol. Had a text from Deon today the guys a brilliant bloke wishing me well (you will have to come to England some time to let me return your hospitality mate.)

Didn't get out of bed till eleven this morning so missed breakfast, went across to the clock tower and got some coffee and something to eat at one of the cafe's, whilst watching the seals sunbathing on the platform below me. I then went and did a bit of shopping before my next adventure.

I booked up to go on a twin hulled ship however when I got there they didn't have enough people so put me on a clipper boat that had five sails. The weather was coming in and Table mountain already had a white table cloth over it, but the skipper informed us that is was still on for the sunset cruise. Out we went into the cape only to be meet by huge waves that lashed at the side of the clipper. We were asked to move from one side to the other as they tried to sail the boat but the waves were so strong we were soon issued with capes to stop us from getting soaked.

I know I have been on a few bumpy rides before but this one had to beat them all the waves were breaking over the bow and we were being thrown around like toys. I'm supprised I didn't damage my camera. We got to see a glorious sunset and the crew just kept filling our glasses up with pink champagne (I think this was to keep us quite when we got back home) Lucky for me there had been a a fire and rescue seminar out here this week and most of the people on board were from the Spanish team who had won the competition so that made me feel a bit safer. In the end they had to drop all the sails as it just got to rough and we made our way back into the safety of the harbor under power, this took forever as the current and waves were dragging us back two paces for every three we went forward. The crew had it all under control though and I must admit worked very hard to reassure us that everything was ok. I know no, why they call it the cape of good hope because you just hope you can get around it.

Anyway back to shore and a few stiff drinks later all is forgotten apart from a few bruises here and there. Had a nice fillet steak to make up for it tonight back at the hotel but not looking forward to tomorrow. I have a 4:45 start in the morning ouch and the cab is collecting me at 5:45 to take me on my last leg to the airport and then up to Victoria Falls before my all to sudden return home.

One last thing whilst I was having my meal last night I got a phone call from home stating that shooting was starting this Saturday as the birds had done so well. Talk about gutted. But he almost had a fit when I told him he was calling me in South Africa it was quite ironic.

Anyway I can here the storm brewing outside my hotel window the wind is whistling. I just hope it will be over by tomorrow so the plane flights are ok.

Love to all back home I miss you guys but think we all need to take a trip out here it is fantastic.

S.A Day Sixteen

Woke up early today and had a big breakfast, went and got some smokes which cost a fortune out here its funny how cheap cigarettes are but cigars are so expensive for some reason.

Charnel picked me up from outside my hotel and took me along the coast road to show me some famous tourist sights before we headed inland to reach the first vineyard, which was a place called Durbanville we meet Charnel's aren't who was already there waiting for us and had already arranged the tasting we had a selection of ten wines that we tasted now I know I prefer red wines normally but for some reason the white wines were a lot wore pleasant, which was strange for me. I found the reds were to in your face and lacked the sophistication that the reds' you get in France have, however the whites were quite complex and seemed less acidic than the normal French whites. The views were also quite spectacular from this estate and they had a lovely balcony where you could view the estate from.

Then to the next vineyard which was Faiview, here they not only specialise in wine but also make there own cheese, a number of the wines they produce play on words and I would think they are are looking for the mass markets as there wine although very drinkable I would say would not become a collectable however the cheese is something else so having the two side by side makes a very pleasant experience, just a personal note stay away from anything that sounds like goats do roam on the wine front. Also some of the staff require a lesson on hospitality they can be most abrupt.

The third and final vineyard we visited was just down the road and called the Seidelburg wine estate, this had a very good cellar and friendly staff and I would recommend to anybody, although stay clear of the sparkling white if you have a pallet like mine. They also have a glass blowing factory on site where you can watch items being made as well as a very good restaurant with spectacular views. The Pink I could definitely recommend with its crystal clear flavor that was so refreshing you felt tempted to drink gallons of the stuff although at 13.5% probably isn't advisable.

I was so pleased that I wasn't driving today as there is no way I would have been able to do the three vineyards so I must make a massive thanks to Charnel who is a star in my eyes and her Aunt for the hospitality that they both showed me today. I will never forget and I can't thank the pair of you enough.

Once I got back to the hotel I had a bit of a kip then struggled down to the restaurant for my evening meal. This was probably one of the best I have had in Cape Town I started of with 6 fresh Oysters some lemon, tabasco, and pepper rested on a bed of ice then followed by one and a half lobsters that had been cooked to perfection, accompanied by a bottle of Excelsior Sauvignon Blanc chilled in an ice bucket next to my table. (What a hard life it is out here, but someone has to do it)

S.A Day Fifteen

Got up early today and caught a cab to take me to the Table Mountain call car, had to queue for some time to get a ticket but eventually got there thank goodness they don't ski down the mountain it would take all day. Anyway the cable car has a rotating platform that does exactly three hundred and sixty degrees on the way up so you get to see all directions it is quite marvelous the scenes that you see on the way up. When at the top you have three different walks you can go on that take you around the top of the mountain all of which are quite easy to do as long as your not in a wheel chair. I opted for the middle one which only took about forty minutes but you got to see all side of the mountain and some terrific scenery. The only thing I didn't see was the daisy which is a small creature that is meant to be closely related to an Elephant of all things.

I then went and had a bite to eat and saw a group of Girls from the UK that were on a hen Party I think and had decided to absail down the mountain. Now I would have considered this a good thing to try however after being on top of this mountain and seeing how far up we were all I can say is that they were stupid or insane there is no way in a million years you would get me to do that. But I do wish them all well.

Whilst I was up Table Mountain I called one of the people I had meet a couple of nights before , she had offered to take me on a wine tour, so I thought I would take her up on the offer.

That evening I meet up with Charnel and Dien and we had a few drinks it was arranged that she would pick me up at 10:30 from my hotel the next mornning and take me on the tour, (she has family in Sunbury so new a lot about where I was from.

Got back to the hotel room slightly tipsy but looking forward to the day ahead.

AFRICA

Just wanted to add this short poem to my blog as it seems quite appropriate and fitting.

AFRICA

I am the land of their fathers
In me the virtue stays,
I will bring back my children
after certain days

Under their feet in the grasses
My clinging magic runs
They shall return as strangers
They shall remain as son's.

Over their heads in the branches
of their new-bought, ancient trees,
I weave an incantation
And draw them to my knees.

Scent of smoke in the evenings
Smell of rain in the night
The hours, The days and the seasons
order their souls aright;

Till I make plain the meaning
Of all my thousand years.
Till I fill their hearts with knowledge,
While I fill their eyes with tears.

Rudyard Kipling

Being out here especially when you see the beauty of the landscape and the naturall wilderness helps you understand this poem and makes it seem so real as I felt I just had to add this to my blog.

S.A Day Fourteen

Had another problem with the old tum today not sure if it was the drink last night or what but been hitting the imodium as though its going out of fashion.

Went for a walk around the docks on the other side today I wanted to go up table mountain but was recommended to wait until tomorrow as there will be a better view and it will be worth while.

Have found that this is quite an expensive area compared to what I've been used to it is definitely a tourist trap and they make the most of it, but I suppose you pay for the pleasant surroundings and the views along with all the cafe's and bars that are around it is amazing how they all exist but they seem to be busy even on a Monday.

Went to a place called the green oyster club tonight for dinner which was the most expensive meal I have had since I got to S.A it cost me almost 40 pounds but did have a live jazz band playing which were ok but I think they could have done with a bit more practice. This restaurant boasts they have jazz on eight nights a week (now it may be me but I thought there were only seven nights in a week or is this a take on some jazz song that I don't know about).

Anyway have just got back and am able to hire a laptop which I have in my room so I can update all my blogs, sorry for the delay in the posting of the last few but couldn't get on anywhere in Hermanus and time just seems to be slipping by.

Its good to see your comments but don't forget even if you can't publish comments I can still get your emails when I get a chance to log onto a computer.

S.A Day Thirteen

Well I have just taken an amazing drive into Cape Town right in front of Table Mountain which looks spectacular, which a white table cloth covering the top of it and arrived at my hotel. It is right on the quay side and I have a great view from my room of both the docks and Table Mountain. Went for a wonder around the docks and there are so many shops here it is amazing would put blue water to shame. Stopped of in one bar called the ferrymans and was able to get a pint of Guinness and meet up with some locals who I got chatting too, one of the girls had two dogs that she had entered into some dog trials that were going on in the harbor village and had one a prize so there was drink flowing from all sides. In fact one of her dogs does adverts and TV programs and is actually the dog in the direct line pet insurance commercial that we ge back home.

Stayed with this group all night and got fairly drunk by the end of it they were so nice they even walked me back to my hotel to make sure I got back saftley, we have arranged to meet again but I'm not sure if that was just the beer talking or if they were serious, will have to find out but either way it was a laugh and a good time was had by all.

S.A Day Twelve

Had a bit of a rough nit last nite, spent most of it on the toilet, so much for an early start. Stayed by the pool side for most of the day as it was close to the loo, had a few imodium which helped and I felt confident enough by 2:30 to go on a boat which took you up close to the whales.

There had been gale warnings all day but it had been such a lovely day until about two hours into the whale watching when the wind and the sea soon picked up and became quite choppy, a number of people on the boat started being sick and the skipper decided to cut the trip short and head back to the safety of the harbour, by this tie most of the passengers had sick bags in front of them but I just wanted to stay out a bit longer and watch the whales, for some reason I never have been bothered with sea sickness and can't really understand why people feel so ill. A big swarm of flies hit the boat and so the side windows were pulled down as the boat battled against the waves to get back to shore, we soon made it though and it had been quite an experience to see such magnificent creatures so close up, it makes you realise just how huge they really are.

Went back ot my hotel and got changed then headed into town to a nice bar called Burgundy, where they only sold S.A Wine Hmmm. After a couple of glasses drove back to the new harbour and went to a restaurant called cliff rock which is a grill and sea food restaurant. I had six oysters which were lovely and a massive rack of ribs for me main course which I couldn't get near to finishing.

Finally left and feeling very full headed back to my hotel for a brandy out of the mini bar and a few cups of coffee. I might watch a film later but have got to drive to Cape Town tomorrow so may just get an early night.

S.A Day Eleven

Time for the long drive to Hermanus for some whale watching. After two small traffic jams where they were repairing the road following the floods earlier on this year, it took me just over four hours which wasn't bad going.

Got to the guest house and was shown around it's probably the most basic place I've stayed in so far on this trip but is very nice and well kept, I think I have just been spoiled by the other places. It has no Bar or restaurant so had to go into town to get some dinner found a pizza place which seemed ok and I was very tiered so wanted an early night, ready for some whale watching tomorrow.

S.A Day Ten

View of Knysna from my balcony at six o'clock in the morning just as the sun was rising

Had a few drinks last night so didn't get up until 9:30, had some breakfast then headed down to the pontoon for a spot of fishing. The manager had sent the gardener down to get some mud pluggers early that morning, they look a bit like a small prawn but have pincers that try to give you a nasty nip especially when you try to stick a hook through them (can't say I blame them really). Within 5 minutes I had caught my first fish it was a small leatherback which look very pretty but have got nasty spikes on the top that come up when you try to grab hold of it.

As the day progressed I caught a few more and had loads of bites but nothing much even though I told the manager I caught a whale for some reason he didn't believe me. By mid afternoon the wind started to pick up and the tied was coming in at a rate of knots, I started to get very wet where the waves were splashing against the pontoon so decided to call it a day, just before I reeled my line in I felt a strong tug and thought I had caught something really big, it was putting up a terrific fight as I reeled my line in I suddenly realised what had happened the tide had blown my line into the side of the jetty and where the waves and me struggling to real it in it felt like I had the big one hooked.

S.A Day Nine

Well today I decided to go sailing as the fishing boat wasn't going out due to lack of people interested. It was a 54ft yacht that had been built in S.A and was very well equipped. There was one skipper and a deck hand who had to do all the work including changing sails, serving drinks and making sushi.

At Knysna its law for here about to wear a life jacket whilst going through the heads, as the navigatable channel is only 70ft wide at high tideand gets a bit choppy but has no wind as there are cliffs on both sides.

When it was a logging port, of the 260 odd big ships that sailed into it 56 were smashed onto the rocks, the last incident only happened a few years ago when a square hulled fishing boat tried to enter during a storm and was capsized by the huge waves as it was unable to ride the surf. Luckily all the crew were rescued.

When we got through the head we were allowed to take the life jackets off and the skipper decided it was fair enough to put the spinnaker up, this allowed us to catch more wind and go a lot faster, we had seals swimming by the side of the boat and saw some whales in the distance, which we tried to catch up with . Given that the wind speed was 14.5 knots and we were doing 9.5 knots we were going at some rate and the sea was coming up over the deck as we were on so much of a keel, yet we still couldn't get near them. It was son time to head back and as we approached the heads it was time to don our life jackets again. Our skipper thought he may be able to surf through the heads this time, so we waited for a large wave to help us through. He managed to get three quarters of the way through before loosing the wave and had to turn the motors back on.

S.A Day Eight

Had breakfast this morning after a lovely meal yesterday evening of snails with a Roquefort and garlic sauce followed by a huge fillet steak. The as it was raining decided not to do the fishing trip I was thinking of but to go into town to buy myself something waterproof I think I'm going to need it. Took me about half an hour to get some travelers cheques exchanged at the bank you needed to sign so many pieces of paper it was stupid. Managed to get myself a top that is meant to be waterproof but it only costs me twelve pounds so will wait and see, had a quick snack at the local coffee shop that turned out to be a meal and a half, I had ordered a club sandwich well I have never seen a slice of bread this large before and they gave we two. No joking each slice of bread must have been about a foot square, I had to leave most of it I just couldn't manage to eat it all.
Had a wonder around the shops, and went for a bit of a drive then headed back to my hotel as I was getting tired and could feel myself falling asleep, not a good idea when your driving. Had an afternoon kip and felt great in the evening had some drinks in the bar then into diner where I had the pattie and springbok which tastes a bit richer than beef it was done in some fillow pastry with a red wine gravy and was very filling. All I seem to have done on this holiday is eat, sleep, and drink. Never mind went back to the bar for a night cap then retired to my room for some coffee and reading outside on the balcony where I managed to take a few photos of Knysna at night which look quite good really.

S.A Day Seven

Missed my wake up call & got up at 8:00 which wasn't good as i was being collected at 9:15 and had a long day ahead of me. Packed my case and managed to have a quick breakfast and checked out. Made up some time on the way to the airport as there was little traffic on the road. I managed to get a bit more kip on the plane between Durbhan and PE (Port Elizabeth) starting to pick up some of the local lingo. Got my hire car which s a ford 1.6 bit slower than what im used to but does me fine, and set of on the garden route down to Knysna. All the signs say welcme to the sunshine coast and yet it was chucking it down with rain I had the wippers on full blast most of the way. Must say though that the N2 has some of the most spectacluar scenery i have evr seen in my life from moutains reaching into the sky to massive georges that drop down into the bottom of the earth, every turn you take you get something different from dense woodland to ocean views. Its just a shame it is rainning althou i would have probably been stopping every two minutes to take another photo if the weather had been kinder. Was stopped by the police at a checkpoint where you were asked if you carried any meat or firearms I said no but i must have looked a bit dodgy as he insisted on looking in the boot of my car before letting me go.

Finally arrived at Knysna about three hours latter and checked into this glorious hotel where the staff are truly friendly and go out of there way to help you and the veiws across the lagoon are fantastic I am in the Lady Anne suite have my own lounge with tv writing desk, min bar and view of the lagoon my bedroom has another panoramic view and another tv with safe and more wardrobes than you could ever need into the hall that has more cupboard space and then into this massive bathroom you could have a party in the shower it is so big.

S.A Day Six

Well after the disasterous meal yesterday and my complaint my name was suddenly known by everybody. As i went to breakfast which appeared almost immediatley, I was recommended to go to the valley of the pools. Most of whch you can't swmin in but do look very attractive. The final two pools are for swimming and whilst your in them you can look at the ocean and because they are rimfill pools it actually feels like you are swimming in the sea, a strange sensation. Th clouds came over at about 3:00pm and had t wait almost 45 mins for the car to come and collect me, they only come once and hour and its a five mile walk all uphill back to the lodge. Headed back to the room for a warm shower and called home. It was good to hear Mum and Dad's voice even though the line had a long delay on it.

The one thing that has struck me with this place is that it is run by a major corporation and this shows through, everything is correct from the way the table is laid t the uniforms the staff where and even the smiles on the staffs faces look as though they are part of a corporate logo and arn't really genuine, unlike the last place i stayed at phinda where everybody seemed to be happy to be there and they all felt like they were part of a team and living an experiance as well as working there.

In the evening i thought i would give the restaurant another try the alternative would have meant getting a taxi into town and MacDonalds. I went for the curry this time Chicken and prawn and i can assure you it was probably one of the best currys i have ever had you could taste each inividual herb and spice as you eat it even though it was fairly hot, this was the redeeming feature of this place.

S.A Day Five

Went on the morning drive and where looking for the leopard the only one of the Big Five I have yet to see, unfortunately although we found some fresh tracks he was knowwhere to be seen. This took up most of the drive so didn't really get to see much else apart from the normally culprits.

Back to the lodge for breakfast then pack and a security guard comes and collects my bags, I check out and a cab appears for me to drive me two and a half hours down to Zimbali Lodge. This is a very nice place that is very colonial in its appearance the only think that has let it down so far is the meal I had last night which I had to wait over an hour for my main course however on the bright side the manager would not charge me for any of my food or the glass of wine and bottle of water I had whilst I was sitting in the bar which I thought was very nice of him.

Went across to the bar and had a few drinks whilst chatting to the bar staff and taking my Normal position at the end of the bar, finaly got driven in a golf car back to my room at about 11:45 to head straight to bed.

The room is amazing with gorgeous views across the course and out to sea the bathroom has a massive cast iron Victorian style bath stuck in the middle and a great shower and sink to on side. I can call my butler and he will sort out my laundry and clean my shoes even top up my mini bar if I need it or drive me around the estate on a golf buggy. What style.

S.A Day Four

This morning we get a lay in until 5:30 big deal after last night, we head down to the river as we are going on a boat today, unfortunately when we get to where they park the Jeep the pride of lions we saw yesterday have decided to rest right in that spot. We have to Waite half an hour for them to move far enough away before we can board the boat. We get to see various birds that nest along the riverbank and have some of the most amazing colours, and also a number of crocodiles some just poking there heads above the water and some the are lazing on the banks soaking up the rays from the sun. We also see where the hippos enter the water but they don't seem to be around today which is a shame in some respects however they have been known to turn boats over and after seeing all those crocodiles I don't think I would like to end up in the water with both the crocs and an angry hippo.

That evening we find the pride of lions again and they are hunting they try to chase a cheater but it easily gets away decoying the lions from the rest of them, these animals are very cleaver in the way they hunt and protect there own, we park up just above a watering hole and have blocked the road only to find the pride of lions commons up a track by the side of us and they have to squeeze between the bushes and the jeep and guess whose side they come down, mine again I was so close I could have easily just put my hand out and touched one of them, bear in mind that this jeep has no windows and no top to it we are out in the open with nothing to stop the animals from going for us. How quite everybody became when they came this close to the jeep though it was an amazing sight.

Headed back for my final evening meal at the lodge and a few glasses of wine to help get me to sleep.

S.A Day Three

Back up at 5:00am and out on our next drive, these early morning are killing me. We get news that a pack of lions is in are area and our driver dumi speeds of down these dirt tracks to be the first on the scene yet again, there are six lions with another three older males following them about thirty foot behind, they are the new adolescent lions that have t now leave the pride and go and make there own. They get within about 10 foot of the jeep on my side just typical especially when the mother stops right by the side of me and just stares straight at me. On we go and more elephants and cheaters, stop for a coffee and find a warthogs scull from a previous kill, then back to the lodge for breakfast and a sleep before lunch. This time I do make lunch and in the evening we go for our game drive after which we stop in the middle of knower where they have set up a camp with lights and a big fire, Bar and a massive BBQ all the guards are wondering around with guns and torches making sure none of the animals come into our camp evidently this type of camp attracts the lions cheaters and leopard as the can smell the meat cooking from miles around, we finally get a lift back to the lodge and get to bed around 1:00am